Wednesday, December 6, 2017

Medieval Medlars

Medlar Recipes



In the book, Food in Motion: The Migration of Foodstuffs and Cookery Techniques, an entire chapter on Medlars and their introduction to the Netherlands provides us with recipes and history.





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Pâte de fruit aux nèfles, glacée au chocolat

200g firm medlars
1.2 litres water
2 lemons
sugar


Ingredients                        Quantity
Medlar (very ripe)              Desired quantity
Water                                   Desired quantity
Sugar                                   800 gr / kg of fruit puree
Chocolate (50% cocoa)       Desired quantity
Agar-agar                            (4gr / liter)         
Lemon juice                        Few drops

Preparation:
Prepare the fruits: wash the medlars, then deposit them whole in a pan, add 1/3 of the volume in water. Cook +/- 20 minutes. When discarding, pour them into a fine strainer and press firmly with a spatula to extract the pulp. If necessary, add a little water to facilitate the operation. Weigh the collected pulp, pour into a saucepan, add the sugar, a few drops of lemon juice and the agar-agar.

Preparation of the dough: mix well and cook over low heat without stirring until the dough comes off the bottom.

Make the shapes: line the bottom of a baking dish with parchment paper, pour the mixture on top, level the surface with a spatula. Let cool. Cut the fruit paste into a square.

Finishing: melt chocolate. Dip the fruit pasta in it.

Recommendation: add a lot of pectin or agar-agar to the preparation to make the fruit paste "take". Place these pasta on a génnoise and place a few moments in the freezer to serve frozen. Decorate with cocoa powder and/or some roasted dried fruit.

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Medlar Jelly

From the UK Royal Horticulture Society
Summary: A bronze-coloured preserve for eating with cold roast meat. If you have no firm medlars, only ‘bletted’ ones, then you can still make a perfectly good jelly.

Ingredients: Makes a medium-sized jar
800g bletted medlars (see below)

Details:
Make sure the medlars are well bletted and remove any leaves. Cut each fruit in half and drop into a heavy-based saucepan. Pour over the water. Cut the lemon into six pieces and add it to the fruit. Bring to the boil then turn the temperature down so that the liquid simmers gently, Partially cover with a lid and leave to cook for an hour, taking care that the liquid doesn’t evaporate, and giving the fruit an occasional squash with a wooden spoon. Avoid the temptation to stir or mash the fruit which will send the finished jelly cloudy.

Pour the fruit and its liquid into a jelly bag suspended over a large jug or bowl. (I hang mine from the taps over the sink) Let the juice drip into the jug, giving it the occasional squeeze till all the juice has dribbled through.

Put the juice back into a clean saucepan and boil for four minutes, then add an equal amount of sugar (this is likely to be about 500g or 2 cups). When the sugar has dissolved pour into clean, warm jars and seal. I use Kilner jars with rubber seals. Leave to cool.

To blet medlars:
Medlars appear in farm shops and occasionally farmer’s markets and specialist food shops in late autumn. They are usually bought rock hard and have to be softened.

Pull off any leaves and place the whole fruits on a shallow plate. Don’t pile them up.

Leave them at cool room temperature till they turn deep brown and are soft, almost squashy, to the touch. They are then ready to cook.

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Medlar Curd, Wine, and Jelly

By Maddy Harland, Permaculture Magazine
Store them in sawdust or bran in a cool, dark place until they go soft and develop an aromatic flavour. You can eat medlars raw once bletted – they taste similar to an overripe apple – a rather acquired taste. You can also mix the pulp with honey and cream or eat plain, accompanied by port.

Medlar Curd & Medlar Wine
Traditionally, medlars are also turned into a 'curd' style of fruit cheese, where the strained pulp is cooked like lemon curd with eggs, butter and sugar. They can also be used for making a country wine that tastes rather like sherry. Simply add the bletted fruit to sugar and water plus a wine yeast and leave to ferment. I added pears as well, racked the brew and bottled it for two years. It was medium sweet with a very alcoholic taste and effect. I didn't test the specific gravity but it was like a very respectable sherry.

Medlar Jelly
Perhaps the most popular recipe is medlar jelly. This one was kindly given to me by Pippa Wynn from Somerset.

Ingredients:
2kg (4lbs) medlars
2.5 litres (4 pints) water
Sugar
Lemon juice

Method:
After the fruit has been left to go soft, wash it and place in a preserving pan with the water; simmer slowly until fruit is soft and mushy. Pour into a scalded jelly bag and allow the fruit to drip for a few hours. Do not push the fruit through or the finished jelly will be cloudy. Measure the strained juice into a preserving pan and add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice to each 600ml (1 pint) of juice. Bring to the boil. To each 600ml (1 pint) of juice add 350g (12oz) sugar. Stir until dissolved. Return to the heat, bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Remove any scum. Pour quickly into warmed jars, cover and label.

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